What is Hawaiian Food? A History of Hawaiʻi's Unique Cuisine
What is Hawaiian food? That sounds like a simple question, but the answer is anything but simple. Years ago, we conducted an informal poll asking people what foods came to mind when they heard the words “Hawaiian food.” Pineapple was the most common answer. Kabobs came in second. I found that fascinating because neither is native to Hawaiʻi. Even the coconut, something almost inseparable from the popular image of tropical islands, was brought to Hawaiʻi by Polynesian voyagers. Pineapple is native to South America and was introduced to Hawaiʻi after Western contact. Francisco de Paula Marín recorded growing pineapple in Hawaiʻi in 1813. And the famous “Hawaiian pizza” isn't Hawaiian at all. The ham-and-pineapple combination is generally credited to Greek-born restaurateur Sam Panopoulos in Ontario, Canada, in 1962. So what exactly makes food Hawaiian? Part of the confusion comes from using “Hawaiian food” to describe several different things. Native Hawaiian cuisine, foods...